Lakes and Paddling in Vermont

Overview

Vermont is not a state most people first associate with water, but it sits along the sixth-largest freshwater lake in the country and drains through half a dozen named rivers into the Connecticut on its eastern edge. Vermont lake paddling breaks into three distinct experiences: the big open water of Lake Champlain on the west, the remote glacial ponds of the Northeast Kingdom in the north, and the moving water of rivers like the Lamoille and the Mad that flow through farm country between the Green Mountain ridges.

Lake Champlain runs about 120 miles from Whitehall, New York to the Canadian border at Rouses Point, with Vermont's shoreline stretching along the eastern side. Burlington sits at roughly the midpoint of that shore, with a working waterfront and a public boat launch at the mouth of the Winooski River delta. To the north, the Champlain Islands, Grand Isle, North Hero, South Hero, and Isle La Motte, are connected by causeways and bridges, and the protected channels between them make some of the best flatwater paddling in the state. The crossing distances between islands range from a few hundred yards to just over a mile, manageable in a kayak on a calm morning. Further north, Lake Memphremagog in Newport extends roughly 31 miles into Quebec, with cold, clear water and a remote Canadian border you can paddle to.

If you want true quiet water in the Northeast Kingdom, Green River Reservoir State Park in Hyde Park bans all motorized craft. That means the only sounds are your paddle and whatever birds are moving through the hemlocks. The reservoir is about 653 acres, with backcountry campsites accessible only by boat, and it rarely gets crowded outside of a July weekend. Lake Willoughby in Westmore is the other Northeast Kingdom standout: a narrow, glacially carved lake about 5 miles long sitting between Mount Hor and Mount Pisgah, whose cliffs rise 1,000 feet directly from the water on both sides. It reads more like a Norwegian fjord than a Vermont pond, and the water temperature in June can still run in the low 50s Fahrenheit.

What to Expect

Paddling on Lake Champlain means dealing with wind. By mid-afternoon from June through August, a southerly breeze typically builds across the open lake, and crossings that felt easy at 8 a.m. can be genuinely rough by 2 p.m. Experienced kayakers read the weather and plan accordingly; beginners should stick to the protected bays and island channels, or go out with a guide. The stretch of lake north of Burlington toward South Hero and the Alburg peninsula has the most protected water for novice paddlers, with a mix of quiet coves, marshland edges, and small beaches where you can pull out and eat lunch.

For a sailing experience rather than paddling, Whistling Man Schooner Co. runs 2-hour cruises on Lake Champlain from the Burlington waterfront at 1 College Street. The company operates a traditional wooden schooner, and the sunset sails in July and August fill fast. The Adirondacks line the western horizon and catch alpenglow on clear evenings, which is the main reason those sunset departures book out weeks ahead.

On rivers, the Lamoille River between Johnson and Cambridge offers a calm float past dairy farms and hillside sugarbushes, with a put-in near the covered bridge in Johnson. The Mad River in the Mad River Valley between Waitsfield and Warren is faster and more technical after snowmelt in May, but it calms down to a pleasant flatwater float by July. Neither river has organized rental outfitters at the put-in, so you need your own boat or a shuttle service from Burlington.

Sand Bar State Park in Milton, about 20 minutes north of Burlington on Route 2, has a shallow warm-water swimming area behind a natural sand bar that stays noticeably warmer than the open lake. It is one of the few places where Lake Champlain heats up enough for comfortable swimming by late June, because the bar traps a shallow lagoon on the east side. Canoe and kayak launches are available at the park, and the slough behind the bar is a flat, protected place to paddle without worrying about boat traffic or lake chop.

Best Season

The core paddling window runs late May through mid-October. Water temperatures on Lake Champlain climb from the mid-50s in late May to the low 70s in August, then drop back through September. July and August are the warmest months for swimming off your kayak, but they are also the busiest on the Burlington waterfront and at popular launch sites. If you are chasing quiet water and reasonable temperatures, the first two weeks of September are the sweet spot: summer crowds are gone, the water still holds heat, and the hillsides around lakes like Willoughby start turning color before anywhere else in the state.

October paddling is possible and spectacular along the foliage route, though water temperatures drop fast and you should wear a wetsuit or drysuit if you tip. The fall foliage drives in Vermont run close to some of the best paddling water, including Route 5A above Lake Willoughby and the Champlain Islands corridor on Route 2, so combining a day on the water with a back-road drive makes sense. See the Vermont Fall Foliage Road Trip itinerary for timing details by region.

Winter closes most paddle access. Lake Champlain partially or fully freezes most years by January, and the Northeast Kingdom ponds ice over by late December. A handful of outfitters offer ice fishing on the larger lakes, but that is a different activity entirely. Spring thaw on rivers like the Lamoille and the Dog River near Northfield brings whitewater kayakers out in April and May, but those runs call for experience with moving water and cold temps.

Typical Costs

Kayak and canoe rentals from Lake Champlain outfitters typically run an estimated $30 to $55 for a single kayak per half day, or $50 to $90 for a full day. Tandem kayaks and canoes land in the estimated $50 to $80 per half-day range. Paddleboards run slightly cheaper. Most outfitters include a basic safety paddle and PFD with the rental. If you want a shuttle service to a river put-in, add an estimated $15 to $30 depending on distance.

Guided half-day kayak tours on Lake Champlain or the Champlain Islands cost an estimated $60 to $90 per person, including instruction, safety gear, and a guide who knows the currents and launch windows. Full-day guided tours run an estimated $110 to $160 per person. Guided tours are worth the cost if you are new to open-water paddling or want to get into the island channels without worrying about navigation. Check the tour operators directory for current operators offering lake tours.

Whistling Man Schooner Co. sails from the Burlington waterfront and tickets typically run an estimated $40 to $65 per adult for a 2-hour cruise; sunset sails at the higher end. Vermont state park day-use fees for beaches and launches run an estimated $4 to $5 per person, making Sand Bar State Park and Kill Kare State Park in St. Albans Bay affordable stops. Green River Reservoir backcountry campsites accessible by paddle-in run an estimated $16 to $27 per night.

How to Book

Burlington is the easiest base for lake access. It is served by Burlington International Airport (BTV), and the city waterfront is walkable from downtown. Most kayak rental operations on the Burlington waterfront run on a first-come, first-served basis for weekday rentals, but weekend slots in July and August go fast enough that calling ahead is worth it. Whistling Man books online, and sunset sails in summer sell out two to three weeks ahead. After you return your boat, Foam Brewers at 112 Lake Street sits right on the water with outdoor seating that looks out over the lake, making it an easy stop between your paddle and dinner.

For paddling in the Champlain Islands, base yourself in North Hero or South Hero for the best water access. The drive from Burlington to North Hero runs about 35 minutes on Route 2 through the causeway, and the northern islands have public launches at Knight Point State Park in North Hero and City Bay in Grand Isle. Both are marked on Vermont state park maps and do not require reservations for day use.

Green River Reservoir backcountry campsites can be reserved through the Vermont State Parks reservation system, and they book out by early May for summer weekends. Hyde Park, the nearest town, sits about 20 minutes east of Stowe on Route 100C. If you are combining a Northeast Kingdom paddle trip with other sightseeing, Route 100 north from Stowe connects to Route 5A past Lake Willoughby and makes one of the best scenic drives in the state without much detour. The Northeast Kingdom also earns its reputation in winter if you are into skiing and snowboarding, but the lakes and ponds are the draw from May through October.